“Adventure Time” Jake ear flap beanie

Jake from “Adventure Time”

jake

My kids are HUGE Adventure Time (AT) fans. They don’t ask for much crochet from me, so when they both asked for hats inspired by their favorite characters, I was happy to oblige!

I will admit, AT is one of the few cartoons that I don’t mind watching with them. I am a product of the 80s, when TMNT and MLP were Saturday morning staples, so I am not at all averse to watching cartoons but most modern cartoons get on my nerves.

Maybe it’s the dystopian setting of AT that gets me; I love a good post-apocalyptic story line!

While I also made Finn, I did not write a pattern and really don’t intend to. Simple character hats are usually boring to me. There isn’t much to recreating Finn so I didn’t find him challenging. Jake on the other hand, presented a special challenge of making him 3D. In crochet terms that means stuffing!

jake 3

As I discussed in my post on the Owl Stuffie, while I appreciate the work that goes into amigurumi, I dislike single crochet. It just doesn’t provide enough real estate for the hands to work quickly and becomes tedious, IMHO. So, Jake is all in hdc, my personal favorite stitch.

The legs are not stuffed. I like how the emptiness allows the legs to “sit” on the kids’ shoulders. Stuffing the legs would make the hat heavier to wear and probably a bit more cumbersome. However, you may choose to stuff the feet or not. That’s up to you. I chose to stuff the feet as indicated by the pattern.

This pattern includes my method for making an ear flap hat in one piece, without the need to break and rejoin yarn.

If you are interested in purchasing a completed hat, you are welcome to message me for direct pricing. It can also be purchased in my Etsy shop.

jake 2


Jake from “Adventure Time”

by Regina S Graham

Materials

F/3.75mm hook

Red Heart Super Saver, 1 skein each of Gold, White, and Black

Yarn Needle for sewing and weaving ends

Stuffing, fiber fill

Notes: Pattern should fit most kids to adults. Add an extra increase round to earflap beanie for a larger adult; also add a round for length. For beanie pattern, increase rounds increase by 9 after 1st round. This hat uses an invisible join. The last stitch of each round of the hat should be worked in the same stitch as the beginning. You are basically working the ch1 stitch twice. The earflaps are worked as part of the beanie, all in one piece.

Earflap Beanie

Round 1: ch 3, 8 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (8)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 2 hdc in each st around, sl sto to top of 1st hdc to join (16)

Round 3: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc in next st, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc in next st *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (24)

Round 4: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts, *2 hdc next st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (32)

Round 5: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sts, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (40)

Round 6: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (48)

Round 7: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc in each of next 5 sts, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc in each of next 5 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (56)

Round 8: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc in each of next 6 sts, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc in each of next 6 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (64)

Round 9: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc in each of net 7 sts, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc in each of next 7 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (72)

Round 10-20: ch 1, hdc same st, hdc each st around, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (72)

*****If Round 21 is too dificult, please continue working Gold around bottom of beanie for Round 21 as in Round 20, then reattach with Gold where earflaps are desired to be placed and continue with Rows 21b.1-10; then pick back up with Round 22*****

Round 21: (earflap round)

21a. Ch 1, hdc same st, hdc in each of next 20 sts, place marker

21b.1(earflap 1, worked in rows) ch 1, turn, working between posts/under loops hdc same st, hdc in each of next 11 sts (12)

21b.2-5: repeat 20b.1 four times (12)

21b.6: ch 2, turn, hdctog working same st as ch 2 and next st, hdc in each of next 8 sts, hdctog over next 2 sts (10)

21b.7: ch 2, turn, hdctog working same st as ch 2 and next st, hdc in each of next 6 sts, hdctog over next 2 sts (8)

21b.8: ch 2, turn, hdctog working same st as ch 2 and next st, hdc in each of next 4 sts, hdctog over next 2 sts (6)

21b.9: ch 2, turn, hdctog working same st as ch 2 and next st, hdc in each of next 2 sts, hdctog over next 2 sts (4)

21b.10: ch 1, turn, sc in same st, sc in each of next 3 sts, continue to edging

Edging: each row of earflap will count as a st, sc in same row as 21b.10, sc in each st along edge of rows to marker, you are back to row 21 of hat

Round 21a cont’d: hdc in each of next 43 sts

21c: repeat 21b for the second earflap

Round 21a cont’d: hdc in each of last 8 sts, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join

Round 22: with Black, sc (I use fpsc) around each bottom st

Cut and sew ends

Ears (make 2)

Row 1: ch 3, 6 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, do not join

Row 2: ch 2, turn, hdc same st, 2 hdc in each of next 5 sts (12)

Row 3: ch 1, sc same st, sc in each of next 2 sts, hdc-dc all in next st, 2 dc in each of next 2 sts, dc-hdc all in next st, 1 sc in each of next 4 sts, leave tail long enough for sewing

Attach ears at round 13 of beanie. Place stitch marker to help keep straight while you sew. Fold beanie in half, lining up earflaps to find right spot and ensure both sides are even.

With Black and a yarn needle, sip st around last sts of ears to add detail.

Snout

Round 1: ch 3, 6 hdc 3rd ch from hook, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (6)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 1 hdc next st, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc next st *, repeat * once (9)

Next portion is worked in rows

Row 3-15: ch 2, turn, 1 hdc same st, 1 hdc each st around, do not join (9)

Row 16: ch 2, turn, hdc same st, * hdctog over next 2 sts, hdc next st *, repeat * once, hdctog over last 2 sts (6)

Row 17: ch 1, turn, insert hook into same st, yo, draw up loop, insert hook into next st, yo and draw up loop, repeat until 6 sts on hook, yo again and draw through all loops, pull tightly and finish off leaving extra long tail for sewing

Placement and stuffing of Snout

Fold beanie in half and place sttch marker at fron on 7th row up from bottom of brim. This will be the middle of the snout.

photo 1 - Copy (5)

I use a washable marker to trace where snout will be sewn into place. While I may not follow it exactly, it does help me keep the placement and shape correct.

photo 4 - Copy (3)

When you have placement set, use stitch marker in same place to hold snout while sewing. I sewed the top before moving to the bottom/underside.

Once I get the top sewn into place, I move my stitch marker to the loose end to hold while I finish sewing.

photo 3 - Copy (3)

photo 2 - Copy (3)

Cut and weave ends.

Nose

worked in the oval round with Black

Round 1: ch 5, 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next st, 6 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 3 hdc in next st, sl st to turning ch to join (14)

Round 2: ch 1, hdc same st, hdctog over next 2 sts, * 1 hdc in next st, hdctog over next 2 sts *, repeat * 3 times, 1 hdc in each of last 2 sts (11)

Round 3: ch 1, hdc in same st, hdc in each st around (11)

Placement and stuffing of Nose

Stuff nose. Hold sts together and whipstitch shut. Sew under middle of snout, be sure to get it sewn tightly under the snout. I added a stitch from underside of beanie up through stuffing to top of nose and back to under beanie to help flatten nose a bit and look more like Jake.

Eyes (make 2)

with Black

Round 1: ch 3, 8 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (8)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc same st, 2 hdc next 7 sts, do not join (16)

Round 3: ch 1, turn, hdc same st, 1 hdc next st, * 2 hdc next st, 1 hdc next st *, repeat * 7 times (24)

Cut tail long enough for sewing

With white repeat rounds 1 and 2, round 3 with sc instead of hdc

Placement for eyesPosition open side of black eye along side of snout and flatten.

Should look like this:

photo 2 - Copy (2)

photo 1 - Copy (4)

To sew white eye, start by inserting hook into corner of black with tail of white to hold placement.

photo 4 - Copy (2)

 

Mouth

with Black, sl st from one edge of snout underside to the other.

*I use fpsc to do this*

Legs (make 2)

Worked from bottom edge of earflaps with Gold

Round 1: working in FLO along bottom 3 sts of earflap, from outside of hat, ch 1, sc same st FLO, sc FLO next 2 sts, turn to inside of earflap, work in same sts but BLO, sc in each, sl st to 1st sc to join (6)

Round 2-32: ch 1, hdc same st, hdc each st around, sl sto to 1st hdc to join (6)

Sew closed.

Repeat on other side.

Feet (make 2)

Worked in the oval round

Round 1: ch 7, 2 hdc 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each of next 3 sts, 6 hdc next st, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sts, 3 hdc last st, sl st to top of 1st hdc to join (17)

Round 2: ch 1, hdc same st, hdc in each of next 5 sts, hdctog 3 times, hdc in each of next 6 sts, sl sto to top of 1st hdc to join (14)

Round 3: ch 1, hdc same st, hdc in each of next 5 sts, hdctog 2 times, hdc in each of next 6 sts (12)

Round 4: ch 1, hdctog 6 times, sl st to 1st hdctog to join (6)

Stuff and sew shut. Sew to flat seam on bottom of leg.

With Gold, sew “toes” in each foot. I only do one. To do this, insert needle from bottom of foot (toward the front), up through the stuffing, and wrap around tip of foot. Repeat a couple times being sure to pull very, very tight to cinch together. Think of this as a whipstitch.

Sew in all ends.


As always, if you attempt the pattern, I want to hear from you! If you find issues or errors, please let me know and I will fix them.

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Owl Stuffie with Upcycled Rattle Pictorial (picture tutorial)

 

 

I don’t make stuffed animals very often. While I find them fun, I get frustrated easily if they don’t look “just so.” That aside, when someone wants a stuffie, I try my best to make a nice one.

Recently I was commissioned to make something in pastel colors, mint and lavender specifically, with an owl theme. Here is a bit of how I created the set:

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(on my PC this photo is very dark, while on my mobile devices, it is not…technology!!!)

 

**All patterns discussed in this post were made with Purl Essence Sincerely Baby Solids in Sincerely Seafoam, Pastel Pink, and Lavender, and Red Heart Super Saver in Egg Shell.**

We discussed a lovey, which I made this:

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I do not have a pattern for the above as of this post. I do plan on writing a lovey pattern within the week but it will be quite a bit different from this one. There are tons of lovey patterns like the above available on Ravelry and Etsy.

We also discussed a blanket:

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The above blanket is simply a corner-to-corner (c2c) stitch, alternating 2 rows of each color with an egg shell.

For fun, I wanted to make something different. I like larger stuffed animals but I hate doing single crochet/amigurumi-style. I totally appreciate the amount of work and detail that is put into them, most especially the micro-crochet ones, I just don’t have the patience. Believe me, I wish I did! I’d love to be able to crank those puppies out, but they’re just not my thing.

So, my compromise was this:

15 - 1 (2)

You’ll notice, this is done with half double crochet instead of single crochet. For those of us who hate single crochet (yes, I KNOW I’m not alone here) you’ll especially appreciate this. :)

The pattern is very simple; simple enough to add whatever you like and make it your own.


Owl Rattle Stuffie:

by Regina S Graham, Hooks and Heels

Materials

Owl:

Purl Essence Sincerely Solids, 1 ball each Lavender (A), Pastel Pink (B), Seafoam (C)

Red Heart Super Saver, 1 skein Egg Shell, 1 skein White

Bit of gray or black to make center of eyes

A scrap of yellow to make beak

4.5mm hook

Sewing needle, not a yarn darning needle

Fiber fill or other stuffing material

Rattle (see instructions below owl)

Stitches Used

Dc (double crochet): YO and insert hook into stitch, YO and draw up loop, YO and draw through first 2 loops on hook, YO and draw through remaining loops on hook

Hdc (half double crochet): YO and insert hook into stitch, YO and draw up loop, YO and draw through all 3 loops on hook

Sc (single crochet): insert hook into stitch, YO and draw up loop, YO and draw through both loops on hook

Sl st (slip stitch): insert hook into stitch, YO and draw through loop on hook

Pattern:

worked in the round

Round 1: with A ch 3, 8 hdc in 3rd st from hook, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (8)

15 - 9

Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (16)

15 - 10

Round 3: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next st, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to 1st hdc to join (24)

15 - 11

Round 4: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 2 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to 1st hdc to join (32)

15 - 12

Round 5: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sts, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 3 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to 1st hdc to join (40)

Round 6: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to 1st hdc to join (48)

Round 7: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 5 sts, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 5 sts *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to 1st hdc to join (56)

Rounds 8-15: ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (56)

Round 16: with B, ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to 1st sc to join (56)

Round 17: with A, ch 1,1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (56)

**note, I paused here to sew in ends using a sewing needle:

15 - 1 (1)

Rounds 18-22: with C, ch 1, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (56)

Stuff with fiber fill or whatever material you’re using as stuffing.

Add rattle now (see instructions for rattle below) making sure to “bury” it in stuffing

 15 - 2 (3)

(note above rattle is NOT the one I used in the rattle instructions below)

15 - 1

Another note on stuffing the owl, since we used half double crochet rather than single crochet, you don’t want to over stuff the owl. Also leave enough head space to allow the sewing without stretching the stitches much. Note on the above photo how much room is left between the stuffing and top edge.

Sewing top closed:

Flatten your work, bringing the seam to the center of the back.

Now holding the top flat, you are going to “sew” the top closed with a sc across front and back stitches

Insert your hook into both front and back stitches on the edge:

15 - 2 (1)

Attach C with a sl st:

15 - 3 (1)

Each time you insert the hook for to complete a sc, make sure you insert through both the front and back stitche:

15 - 4 (1)

The completed single crochet:

15 - 5 (1)

Once it’s all sc’d closed it should look like this:

15 - 2

Break yarn and sew in ends

Eyes, make 2:

Round 1: ch 3, 8 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to top of ch 3 to join (8)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (16)

Round 3: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next st, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st *, repeat * 7 times, sl st to 1st hdc to join (24)

Break yarn leaving a long tail for sewing.

I use a safety pin to hold the eyes in place while I sew.

15 - 3

Once eyes are sewn in place, sew in ends

Eyelashes:

For right eye, attach A with a sl st to outer edge of eye

Row 1: ch 1, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in net st, * 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st *, repeat * 3 times

15 - 5

For left eye, attach A with sl st to inner edge of eye, repeat row 1 as for right eye

15 - 7

Finishing off details like eyes can be tricky on stuffed animals. I like to bring the ends through to the back of the animal like this:

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Sew in ends in, tying knots here and there (I regret I did not take additional pictures of this process)

Pupils:

With gray or black (whatever color you choose to use for the pupils/center of the eye)

Round 1: ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to 1st sc to join (6)

Break yarn leaving long tail for sewing

Attach to desired spot on eyes, depending on the facial expression you’re wanting. I attached them slightly below center.

Sew in ends

Break:

With yellow, ch 3

Row 1: 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook (2)

Row 2: turn, ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in next st (3)

Break yarn and sew below center of eyes, sew in ends

Flower:

With C, ch 2

Round 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to top of ch 2 to join (6)

Round 2: with B, ch 1, 1 sc in same st, ch 2, * sc in next st, ch 2 *, repeat * 5 times, sl st to 1st sc to join (18)

Round 3: [sl st, 4 hdc] in each ch 2 sp, sl st to 1st sl st to join (30)

Break yarns and sew to corner of owl

15 - 4

Sew in ends

And…

Ta-da!!

15 - 6


 

Below are the instructions for the upcycled rattle. Understand, I used items I had on had as I needed to have the rattle done ASAP and didn’t have time to run to the store to buy a rattle. I chose to use rice because I wanted a softer rattling sound than the dry beans provided. I remember being a mom and when laying Nathan (my youngest) down to sleep, bumping the crib and a harsh, noisy rattle startling Nathan awake. Frustrated mommies need NO help waking fussy babies. lol

Since this project, I have purchased these (afiliate link):

Rattle Instructions:

Materials

Any flimsy, small plastic ball (I used a ping pong ball but an Easter egg would work too)

Box cutter or craft knife

Cake decorator’s icing tip or very small funnel

Dry rice or beans, a heaping tablespoon

Measuring cup to hold rice/beans

Electrical tape for water resistance

Fabric–any scraps will work, you only need enough to completely enclose your ball

Needle and thread

Instructions:

Step 1: find ball (this is a ping pong ball. I have no idea where it came from as we do not own a ping pong table)

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Step 2: using a box cutter or craft knife, CAREFULLY cut a slit large enough to fit a cake icing tip:

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Step 3: insert icing tip:

15 - 3 (2)

Step 4: pour a heaping tablespoonful of rice or beans into a small cup:

15 - 4 (2)

This is a 1/3 c measuring cup to help you scale the amount of rice I used

Step 5: pour into ball using icing tip as a funnel:

15 - 5 (2)

Hard to see but the rice is now inside the ball

Step 6: pass tape over slit at least twice to ensure it’s covered well and tape, overlapping with each pass, completely around ball

15 - 6 (1)

Electrical tape I used ^^

15 - 7 (1)

Make sure ball is completely covered to keep water from getting into rice/beans when cleaning/washing

Step 7 (optional): fold rattle into scrap fabric and sew around edges. You may choose to skip this step. I wanted to make sure that should the rattle ever find its way to the outside of the stuffing, it would not be abrasive to baby’s touch, and it would still be visually pleasing. We’d all rather see a pretty printed fabric than a flat black ball of tape!

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The fabric I used was approximately 12″ long and 6″ wide

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I sewed the fabric as close to the ball as I could get, trimming edges when done

Final product:

15 - 10 (1)

And again, the completed set:

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Are you going to make an owl stuffie? Send me your pictures! I’d love to share your work for you!

 

 

 

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Classy Slouchy Cloche

 

 

 

 

 

A friend sent me a picture of a hat she found online. As usual, rather than use the existing pattern I chose to use the picture for inspiration for my own type of hat.

I have recently fallen in love with sedge stitch. It’s also called  http://www.knittybynature.com/r/how-to-crochet-the-textured-combo-stitch/

I’ve used it in several projects recently and am finding it lends a beautiful texture to crochet fabric while leaving little to no holes, as is typical with most crochet stitches.

IMG_1526

As seen above, the movement of the stitch really catches the eye.

 

IMG_1525

 

So far I’ve only been asked to make these 2 color schemes. I’m looking forward to attempting other colors as well.

IMG_1527

The hat pattern is worked from the bottom up. The reason for this is the sedge stitch is allowed to stay upright, which is favorable in my opinion. However I do plan on reversing the pattern and working top down.

If you’ve ever made a hat from the brim to the top before, you may be aware that this allows you to decrease the pattern’s stitches easily, rather than relying on typical round increases before beginning the more interesting stitch pattern.

The top is closed by alternating the sedge stitch with skipping sedge stitches ever other row.

IMG_1536

Apologies for less than stellar pictures!

The flower is made all in one piece. This is a new technique to me. I usually make the flower and add the center “button” to the hat after the flower has been attached. I think I prefer the method used in this pattern as it eliminates the likelihood of stitch errors or the aggravation of keeping everything centered while sewing in place. Making the flower as part of the crochet button automatically ensures everything is centered well and neat.

As of right now I have not included the pattern for the leaf pictured in the last photo. I was in a rush to add it and didn’t jot down any notes. I will update with that pattern as soon as I have it.

________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________

Classy Slouchy Cloche”

3.75mm/F hook

Caron simply 1 skein of each color

Ch 87, sl st to form ring

Round 1: ch 1, sc same st, sc each st around, sl st to ch 1 to join (87)

Alternatively, fsc 87

Round 2: ch 1, sc same st, sc each stitch around, sl st to ch 1 to join (87)

Rounds 3-8: repeat round 2 (87)

Break color 1 and add color 2

Round 9: ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) same st, *sk 2, (sc, hdc, dc) next st*, repeat * 28 times, sk 1, sl st to 1st sc to join (87)

Round 10: ch1, (sc, hdc, dc) same st, *sk 2, (sc, hdc, dc) next st*, repeat * 27 times, sl st to 1st sc to join

Rounds 11-23: repeat round 9

Round 24: ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) same st, *sk 2, sc next st, sk 2, (sc, hdc, dc) next st*, repeat * 14 times, sk 2, sl st to 1st sc to join (59)

Round 25: ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) same st, sk 2, (sc, hdc, dc) next st, *sk 3, (sc, hdc, dc) next st*, repeat * 13 times, sk ,3 sl st to 1st sc to join (45)

Round 26: ch 1, sc same st, *sk 2, sc next st, sk 2, (sc, hdc, dc) next st*, repeat 6 times, sk 2, sc next st, sk 2, sl st to 1st sc to join (27)

Round 27: ch1, (sc, hdc, dc) same st, * sk 3, (sc, hdc, dc) next st, * repeat * 6 times, sk 4, sl st to 1st sc to join (21)

Round 28: ch 1, (sc, hdc, dc) same st, *sk 2, sc next st, sk 2, (sc, hdc, dc) next st*, repeat 3 times, sk 2, sl st to 1st sc to join (15)

Round 29: ch 1, sc same st, *sk 2, sc next st*, repeat * 4 times, sl st to 1st sc to join (5)

Cut and weave ends

Flower:

With color 2, ch 2

Round 1: 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sl st to ch 1 to join (6)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc same st, 1 sc next st, *2 sc next st, 1 sc next st*, repeat * 2 times, sl st to ch 1 to join (9)

Round 3: ch 1, sc same st, sc each of next 8 sts, sl st to ch 1 to join (9)

Round 4: ch 1, sc same st, sc next st, sk 1, *sc each of next 2 sts, sk 1*, repeat * 2 times, sl st to ch 1 to join (6)

Join color 1

Round 5: ch 1, sc same st, *ch 2, sc next st*, repeat 5 times, ch 2, sl st to 1st sc to join (18)

Round 6: (sl st, 4 dc) in each of 6 ch 2 sp, sl st to 1st sl st to join (30)

Round 7: ch 1, turn, now working WS, *fpsc around sc from round 5, ch 3*, repeat * 5 times, ch 3, sl st to 1st sc to join (20)

Round 8: turn, now working RS, (sl st, 6 dc) in each of 6 ch3 sp, sl st to 1st sl st to join (36)

Break both colors, leave long tail to for sewing to hat.

Weave ends

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Babies n stuff

I’m so excited about this pattern! It was so much fun to make and I am looking forward to using different colors in the future.

I enjoy using lots of different craft media in my projects. This uses not only yarn but ribbon, tulle, felt, embroider floss, buckles, and buttons.

This weekend only, through Sunday, February 9 at 11:59p CST, you can purchase the complete pattern pack for 50% off using code BIKEHOOKS at checkout. I appreciate any and all support.

If you have any questions, please don’t hesitate to contact me. I am always willing to help.

bikerbabytutu1 bikerbabytutu2 bikerbabytutu3 bikerbabytutu4 bikerbabytutu5

 

And FYI, new FREE patterns will be posted very soon!

 

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