Quick Check-in

To everyone who has commented or emailed/messaged me over the past year, I am still here!  I have been SUPER busy with returning to school and when I’m ready, I will update you all.

I haven’t had time to crochet much but I do have patterns that need some attention to get posted.

Still, don’t hesitate to contact me. If you don’t get a timely response via comment here or email, feel free to track me down on Facebook. I will do my best to help.

Thank you all for your continued support of my designs!

God bless,

Regina <3

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Monster Jumpsuit Test

My sincerest apologies for being MIA! I’ve had a crazy few months including having my primary computer crash and losing login info for my site here.

I’ve recently decided to pursue my lifelong interest in piano and return to college to complete my Bachelor’s degree in Music (BM) in piano performance! I will be studying at Southwestern Assemblies of God University in nearby Waxahachie. I’m extremely excited for this opportunity and am looking forward to re-entering the world of music and performance.

Just for fun, here is an imperfect performance of “How Great Thou Art” I submitted in my scholarship audition video (link directs to my personal Facebook page).

As a piano major, I will be participating in an ensemble group of multiple pianists in which we will be performing duets and trios, up to 5 pianists playing together! I’ve never done more than a trio so this will be an interesting new experience for me.

I have been practicing all summer, getting prepared to the commitment of a minimum of 3 hours of practice each day. Practice, in addition to being a mom, full-time student, and teaching private piano, guitar, and violin lessons to 17 students each week, I am EXTREMELY nervous going into this first fall semester.

However, all this aside, I will still continue crocheting; it will obviously have to take a back seat to other obligations (at least until I have a better idea how loaded my schedule will be).

So, back to crochet patterns!

I am offering a pattern test of sorts. I need to make extra-sure the pattern works well for people. I have multiple sizes that I will offer in my Ravelry and Etsy but for FREE and with your help, I am offering this pattern up for those of you willing to help a sister out ;)!

It’s been tested several times, but I just want a larger scale test to ensure I’m putting out a quality file.

As always, when the paid pattern is offered up, it will be at a DEEP DISCOUNT.

It’s a long pattern so please let me know if you need any help printing, downloading, or completing it!

A HUGE THANKS to anyone willing to help me with this!

 


***PLEASE READ THROUGH ENTIRE PATTERN BEFORE YOU START. I PREFER TO WRITE PATTERNS THAT REQUIRE LITTLE TO NO SEWING, SO EACH SECTION IS CROCHETED DIRECTLY TO THE EXISTING PIECES YOUR HAVE (ASIDE FROM DECORATIONS/EMBELLISHMENTS)***

Monster Jumpsuit

By Regina S Graham

Gauge: 16 sts x 9 rows = 4 inches

Notes:

Please read through entire pattern before beginning. Measurements are included for each size but please reference a size/measurement guide before determining what size you will need. I use the Craft Yarn Council Size Guide available here: Craft Yarn Council Baby Size Guide

Finished size should be a little roomy for baby to be able to comfortably wear a layer underneath.

This pattern is very versatile! Switch yarn to cotton for a summer coverall. Leave off sleeves for a sleeveless jumper, or reduce rounds for short sleeves. Likewise, leave off the length on pants for shorts.

Materials:

4mm/G hook

Caron Simply Soft, 2 skeins Gray Heather (A)

1 skein each, Cobalt Blue (B), White (C) and Chartreuse (D)

Buttons, no larger than 1/2″, may choose to use snaps or other method for fastening

 

Monster Jumpsuit

Monster Jumpsuit

 

3-6 months (chest measures 17”, waist 18”)

 

Ch 57

Row 1: sc 2nd ch from hook and in each st across (56)

 

Row 2: ch 1, turn, hdc in same stitch, 1 hdc in next 7 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, 3 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 14 st, 3 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 11 sts, 3hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 8 st (64)

 

Row 3: ch 2, turn, hdc same st, hdc each of next 8 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 13 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 16 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 13 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of remaining 9 sts (72)

 

Row 4: ch 2, turn, hdc in same st, hdc in each of next 9 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 15 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 18 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 15 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 10 sts (80)

 

Row 5:  ch 2, turn, hdc same st, hdc each of next 10 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc each of next 17 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 20 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc each of next 17 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 11 sts (88)

 

Row 6: ch 2, turn, hdc same st, hdc in each of next 11 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc each of next 19 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 22 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc each of next 19 sts, 3 hdc in next st, hdc in each of next 12 sts (96)

 

Row 7: ch 2, turn, hdc same st, hdc in each of next 13 sts, ch 6, sk next 21 sts, hdc in each of next 26 sts, ch 6, sk next 21 sts,  hdc in each of next 14 sts (66)

 

Row 8: ch 2, turn, hdc same st, hdc in each st around including each of 6 chs (66)

 

Rows 9-19: ch 2, turn, hdc same st, hdc in each st around (66)

 

Romper should measure 8 inches long from top of sleeve and 18 inches wide at this point

 

Join round 19 with a slip stitch to the 1st hdc of row 19.

 

Now working in Round

 

Round 1: ch 2 (does not count as 1st st), hdc in same st, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (66)

 

Rounds 2-12: repeat round 1

 

Cut yarn

 

Forming crotch for pants:

 

Lay work flat with rows 1-19 laying even and facing to the right.

 

Join yarn with slip stitch to center stitch directly under opening of rows 1-19.

 

Chain 10, skip next 32 stitches, slip stitch in next stitch

 

You should have 33 stitches on each side of the chain 10. If you have one extra on one side, just make sure to work the same number of stitches on each side of the chain 10.  Each leg will consist of 43 stitches: 33 on each side of the chain 10, plus each of the chain 10, to equal 43.

 

Pants Legs:           

 

Repeat pattern for each leg

 

Round 1: ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in each st around including each of ch 8, sl st to 1st hdc to join (43)

 

Rounds 2-10: ch 2, hdc in same st, hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (43)

 

Cut A (gray) and join B (cobalt blue)

 

Round 11: ch 1, 1 sc same st, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to 1st sc to join (43)

 

Round 12: repeat round 11

 

Join C (white)

 

Round 13: repeat round 11

 

Cut C (white)

 

Rounds 14-15: with B repeat round 11

 

Cut B (blue) and join D (chartreuse)

 

Rounds 16-20: repeat round 11

 

Cut D (chartreuse) and join B (blue)

 

Rounds 21-22: repeat round 11

 

Join C (white)

 

Round 23: repeat round 11

 

Cut C (white)

 

Rounds 24-25: with B repeat 11

 

Cut B (blue) and join A (gray)

 

Rounds 26-27: repeat round 11

 

Cut yarn and finish off ends

 

Legs should measure 8” long and 5” wide

 

Sleeves:

 

Pattern is repeated for each sleeve.

 

Join A (gray) with slip stitch to any stitch of sleeve opening.

 

Round 1: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (32)

 

Rounds 2-10: repeat round 1

Cut A, join B

 

Round 11: ch 1, 1 sc same st, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to 1st sc to join (32)

 

Round 12: repeat round 11

 

Join C (white)

 

Round 13: repeat round 11

 

Cut C (white)

 

Rounds 14-16: with B repeat round 11

 

Cut B (blue) and join D (chartreuse)

 

Rounds 17-20: repeat round 11

 

Cut D (chartreuse) and join B (blue)

 

Rounds 21-22: repeat round 11

 

Join C (white)

 

Round 23: repeat round 11

 

Cut C (white)

 

Rounds 24-25: with B repeat 11

 

 

Cut yarn and finish off ends

 

Collar, Button Holes, and Hood:

 

Notes: Join A to left side of row 19 with sl st, work along edge. Since rows 1-19 used half double crochet, the amount of stitches worked in the edge will be greater than the number of rows to accommodate the height of hdc. By completing this first row in A (gray) the exact placement of the stitches is easily hidden to subsequent rows will be worked evenly and neatly in the stitches.

 

Row 1: ch 1, 1 sc same st, 1 sc in each of next 27 sts, 3 sc in next st [should be 1st st of row 1], 1 sc in each of next 54 sts [should be unworked side of foundation chain], 3 sc in next st [should be last st of foundation row], 1 sc in each of next 27 sts [now working right side of each row 2-19] (114)

 

Cut A

 

Collar:

Join B (blue)

Row 2: turn, ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of next 27 sts, 3 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 56 sts, 3 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 28 sts (118)

Place stitch marker in last stitch of row 2 to hold place

 

Hood:

 

Join D (chartreuse) to middle single crochet of first corner of collar.

 

Row 1: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of next 59 sts (60)

 

Row 2: turn, ch 1, 2 sc in same st, *ch 1, sk 1, 1 sc in next st*, repeat * 29 times, 2 sc next st (62)

 

Row 3: turn, ch 1, 2 sc same st, 1 sc next st, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 30 times, ch 1, sk next st, 2 sc next st (64)

 

Row 4: turn, ch 1, 2 sc same st, 1 sc next st, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 31 times, ch 1, sk next st, 2 sc next st (66)

 

Row 5: turn, ch 1, 2 sc same st, 1 sc next st, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 32 times, ch 1, sk next st, 2 sc next st (68)

 

Rows 6-25: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 33 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (67)

 

Row 26: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 15 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 15 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (64)

 

Row 27: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 31 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (63)

 

Row 28: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 14 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 14 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (60)

 

Row 29: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 29 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (59)

 

Row 30: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 13 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 13 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (56)

 

Row 31: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 27 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (55)

 

Row 32: turn, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 12 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 12 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (52)

 

Row 33: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 25 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (51)

 

Row 34: turn, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 11 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 11 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (48)

Row 35: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 23 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (47)

 

Row 36: turn, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 10 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 10 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (44)

 

Row 37: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 21 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (43)

 

Row 38: turn, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 9 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 9 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (40)

 

Row 39: turn, *ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 19 times, sk 1, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (39)

 

Row 40: turn, * ch 1, 1 sc in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 8 times, *sc2tog over next 2 ch 1 sps, ch 1*, repeat * 3 times, *1 sc in next ch 1 sp, ch 1*, repeat * 8 times, 1 sc in turning chain space from beginning of previous row (36)

 

Join last stitch of round 40 to first stitch and sew top edge together to close hood.

 

Cut yarn

 

Hood edge:

Row 1: join D (chartreuse) to edge of row 1 of hood and single crochet in the edge of each row

Row 2: turn, ch 1, 1 sc same st, 1 sc each st across (80)

Cut yarn

Drawstring: ch 135, tie knots in each end of chain

Weave through edge of hood and open stitches from hood edge. Knot on ends or add fastener.

Spikes (make 4):

With B (blue) chain 20, sl st to form ring

Round 1: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each st around, sl st to1 st sc to join (20)

Round 2: repeat round 1

Round 3: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of next 3 sts, sk 1, *1 sc in each of next 4 sts, sk 1*, repeat 3 times, sl st to 1st sc to join (16)

Round 4: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts, sk 1, *1 sc in each of next 3 sts, sk 1*, repeat * 3 times, sl st to 1st sc to join (12)

Round 5: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, sk 1, *1 sc in each of next 2 sts, sk 1*, repeat * 3 times, sl st to 1st sc to join (8)

Round 6: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, sk 1 *1 sc in next st, sk 1*, repeat * 3 times, sl st to 1st sc to join (4)

Leave long tail for sewing. Flatten hood and sew to back edge.

Button holes:

Remove stitch marker in B from collar portion

Ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, * ch 1, sk 1, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts *, repeat * 9 times, 1 sc in each of next 110 sts

Cut yarn

 

Spots:

With C (white)

Small spots: ch 3, 6 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to 1st hdc to join (6)

Large spots: ch 4, 6 dc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to 1st dc to join (6)

Make as many as desired

Cut leaving long tail for sewing

Attach where desired

Face:

Eyes (make 2):

With C (white)

Round 1: ch 3, 6 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to 1st hdc to join (6)

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (12)

Round 3: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st*, repeat * 5 times, sl st to 1st hdc to join (18)

Cut leaving long tail for sewing

With E (black)

Round 1: ch 3, 6 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to 1st hdc to join (6)

Cut leaving long tail for sewing

Sew to back of top

Mouth:

With black

Slip stitch 15 across back, under eyes

Teeth:

Skip first stitch of mouth and *join C (white) with slip stitch to bottom loop of next stitch

Ch 1, [1 hdc, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook (picot), 1 hdc] in next st, sl st to next st

Cut yarn*

Skip next st and repeat * 3 more times until you have 4 teeth

Finish off ends

Paws:

With D (chartreuse), worked in oval round

Ch 5

Round 1: 3 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 hdc in next st, 6 hdc in next st, now working in unworked side of foundation, 1 hdc in next st, 3 hdc in next st, sl st to 1st hdc to join (8)

Round 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in each of next 6 sts, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in each of next 3 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (26)

 

Cut yarn

With C (white)

Join with slip stitch to 18th st

*Ch 1, [1 hdc, 1 dc, ch 2, picot] in next st, [1 dc, 1 hdc, sl st] in next st, cut yarn, skip next st and join yarn again in next st*, repeat * 3 total tiwmes until you have 3 claws on the paw

Finish off ends

 

 

 

 

 

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Window Pane Valence

A lovely childhood friend asked me to make her a curtain. I don’t think I’ve ever crocheted a curtain before, but I thought the look was easy enough, asked her if I could use a thicker cotton (the picture looked to have been done with thread and I just can’t handle thread with my hands right now), and set out to work on the pattern.

window pane 2

I had no other information on the stitch pattern aside from the screen shot she sent me. I couldn’t find a diagram and honestly had no idea where to start looking. What I came up with is quite a bit different from the photo she saw, but the overall look is the same.

 

The stitch ended up working up pretty quickly and easily. And despite my apprehension as to how it would turn out, I ended up very pleased with the result. When she sent me a picture of the finished curtain in her kitchen window I knew she had made a great call!

 

I hope you enjoy the pattern!!

 


 

Window Pane Valence

by Regina S Graham

window pane 2

Materials:

G/4.5mm hook

Lily Sugar n Cream cotton yarn (or comparable size 4, worsted weight), 500 yards (I used about half of one 400g cone as I didn’t want to cut and rejoin yarn)

Size:

This pattern is written for a standard size curtain rod—rod pocket measures 3 inches tall. Valence is 52” wide and 21” long, including pompom border at bottom.

To change width, adjust beginning chain to multiples of 5, plus 2.

To change length, add or take away rows as desired. Remember to allow 1 inch for pompom border and 3 inches for rod pocket.

Special Stitches:

Cluster: YO, insert hook into desired stitch, YO and draw up loop, YO and draw through first 2 loops on hook (now have 2 loops on hook), YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO and draw up loop, YO and draw through first 2 loops on hook (now have 3 loops on hook), YO, insert hook into same stitch, YO and draw up loop, YO and draw through first 2 loops on hook (now have 4 loops on hook), YO and draw through all 4 loops, cluster made

 

Pattern:

Chain 177

Row 1: 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook (turning ch and dc counts as 2 dc), 1 dc in each of next 3 ch, *ch 5, sk 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 chs*, repeat * to end (175)

Row 2: ch 2 (counts as 1st dc), turn, 1 dc in each of next 4 sts, *ch 5, sk 5 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts*, repeat * to end (175)

Row 3: ch 4 (counts as 1 dc and ch 2), turn, sk next st, 1 dc in next st, *ch 2, 1 dc in each of next 5 chs, ch 2, sk next 2 sts, 1 dc in next st*, repeat * to end (175)

Row 4: repeat row 3

Rows 5-23: continue pattern by repeating row 2 twice, then row 3 twice to desired length

Do not cut yarn

Rod pocket:

Row 1: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each st across (175)

Rows 2-24: repeat row 1 (175)

Note: If you need a larger rod pocket continue repeating row 1 until desired length. Example, for a 3 inch rod pocket you’ll need to single crochet rows until length is 6 inches. For a 5 inch rod pocket, you will single crochet rows until length is 10 inches.

To close rod pocket, fold row 24 over to row 1 and sew together.

Cut yarn, finish off ends

Pompom border:

Reattach yarn to either corner of row 1.

Row 1: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each st across (175)

Row 2: ch 1, turn, 1 sc in same st, *ch 6, 1 cluster in 3rd ch from hook, ch 31 cluster in 3rd ch from hook, sl st to same ch as 1st cluster, ch 4, sk 3 sts, 1 sc in each of next 2 sts*, repeat * across

Cut yarn, finish off ends

window pane 1

^^finished panel after I had spritzed it with water and smoothed it flat


*Note: this pattern has not been tested aside from my own repeated working of the rows. If you find any errors, please let me know and I will correct them ASAP. If you have any questions, please contact me by commenting below or email me at hooksandheels@gmail.com

 

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V-Shell Throw Pillow Cover (with pictures)

 

 

 

 

 

v shell pillow 4

In 2015, I made a handful of pillows with thread. The strain on my hands was great and I have taken a hiatus from making any for a while. I’ll do a write-up on them later. You can see them on my Facebook page here.

A couple weeks ago one of my very best friends on earth asked me to make her a throw pillow. She’d been teasing me about making her one for quite a while but she finally sent me a picture of something she liked and I decided to go ahead and make it for her.

Now, there are several ways to make a pillow with crochet. I think I have opted for one of the easier methods here.

We knew she wanted an open, lacy-type stitch. Well, with crochet that’s quite easy! But when dealing with pillows and stuffing, that can present a problem. You can’t fill with fiber fill as it would come out too easily. You don’t necessarily want to use a pillow form as it shows white (or black) and the rough edges can be visible. And it doesn’t hurt for the pillow to at least be attractive or a coordinating color since it will be seen through the stitches. After nailing down what colors would do for her decor (she was wanting something in the rustic deep red or dark teal range) and the size she would like (20 inches), I set out to find her pillow.

My experience in decorating my own home and making pillows last year taught me that pillows, especially decorative pillows, can be quite expensive. So my aim in making this for her was to do it as cost-effectively as possible. Rather than hit the craft stores where I was pretty confident in knowing what my options were there, I decided to try a discount home goods store. My first stop was Ross.

 

v shell pillow 9

Look what I found! A red pillow for $6.99! That was way cheaper than a plain white pillow form. Score!

 

Now, if you know anything about shopping at Ross you know that the pink sticker means it was on clearance and that there was likely something wrong with it. And you’d be right. 🙂 It was a velour material and there was a scratch on one side. I sent her a picture of it to confirm she liked the color and that she was okay with it being not perfect (we are covering it, after all), I bought the pillow and went home to work on finding an appropriate stitch with which to cover it.

v shell pillow 8

 

 

 

 

I’ve used the V-Shell stitch quite often in the last 5 years. It’s pretty easy to me, I can work it up quickly, and it’s been a great crowd pleaser in my experience. I hope you try one for yourself and that you enjoy making it as much as I did!

v shell pillow 3

^I had to try it out on my couch!

Regarding the pattern, there isn’t much of one. The basis of this tutorial is making 2 identical, square panels using the V-shell stitch and adding a border of single crochet to each, then sandwiching them together and single crocheting them together. I added an extra pointy corner to the pillow just because but you can leave that off if you prefer a rounded corner and just use a sc-ch1-sc in those chain 1 spaces.


 

Nina’s Fancy Shell Stitch Pillow

by Regina S Graham

v shell pillow 2

Materials:

G/4.5mm hook

Caron Simply Soft in desired color, I used Off White (2 skeins)

20” pillow

Panel, make 2

Ch 72

Row 1: 1 dc in 4th ch from hook {counts as first 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc}, *sk 3, 5 dc in next st, sk 3, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in next st*, repeat * 8 times, sk 3, 3 dc in next st (70)

Row 2: turn, ch 4, dc in same st {counts as first 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc}, *5 dc in next ch 1 sp, [1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc] in 3rd dc of next shell*, repeat * 8 times, 3 dc in ch 4 sp from beginning of previous round (70)

Rows 3-28: repeat row 2

Without breaking yarn, continue to border with single crochet

Border, repeat for each panel:

Worked around all 4 edges of panel

Round 1: Ch 1, rotate panel so left edge is pointing up, you are now working in the edges of rows 1-28, (*2 sc around post of dc, 3 sc around next ch 4 sp*, repeat * 14 times, ch 1, rotate panel so row 1 of panel is facing up and work into other side of foundation chain, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each chain across, ch 1, rotate panel so right side is facing up, *3 sc around next ch 4 sp, 2 sc around post of next dc*, repeat * 14 times, ch 1, rotate panel so row 28 is facing up, 2 sc in first ch sp, 1 sc in each remaining st across, ch 1, sl st to 1st sc (284)

You should now have 70 stitches on each of the 4 sides, not counting the chain 1 spaces in each corner

Weave in all ends

v shell pillow 7

^2 panels made with border

Putting it together:

Line up the two panels making sure stitches are facing up on both.

Attach yarn with a slip stitch to 1st sc on any side, making sure to insert hook into the 1st sc stitch of each panel. You will work through all 4 loops, 2 loops of front panel stitches and 2 loops of back panel stitches.

v shell pillow 6

^visual of working through all 4 loops of each panel’s stitches

Round 1: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, *1 sc in each st across, [1 sc, 1 dc, ch 1, 1 dc, 1 sc] in next ch 1 sp*, repeat * 3 times, insert pillow between the two panels and repeat * 1 more time, sl st to 1st sc to join

v shell pillow 5

^this is closing up the 4th side around the pillow

Weave in all ends


 

If you give this or any of my patterns a go, I’d love to see your work!

Find a problem? Please comment below! I’ll fix it ASAP.

Thanks for visiting and Happy Hooking!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Punky Slipper Booties

punk boot 6

Boots for the house!

Finished, embellished boots. How fun!!

This is a very fun project to undertake!
*note, spider applique pattern NOT mine, link to Spider Mambo on Ravelry under “embellishments”

Crochet slipper boots have been a popular trend on social media the past few months so I wasn’t surprised a friend asked me to make her a pair. Of course, she wanted some that were a little different and not so plain.

It took forever to find all the “right” components to make a boot that I wouldn’t mind slapping my name on. Granted, they’re not completely off-the-charts insane, but they’re just fun enough to possibly be a conversation starter. They definitely catch the eye!

I was trying for a Doc Martin look and while some folks see that, most think they’re a play on Converse slippers. Okay, either way, they’re neat. 🙂

Boots without any embellishments

Not the best picture, but you see the boots without any added decorations.

The pattern is simple, in theory. It’s the color changes and keeping tension consistent that presents a challenge and led to my decision to classify this as an intermediate/advanced pattern. Since you’re holding 2 strands of each color together, during the color changes you are working 4 strands at a time and that can easily become frustrating if you’re not very comfortable with a hook.

I tried to anticipate many issues that could arise while making the boots but obviously I can’t foresee everything. If you have a problem, please comment and I will respond as soon as I see it. I’ve had several people make the pattern and each of them had varying degrees of difficulty.

Be sure to check your measurements while working on your second boot. You might want to try making both at the same time just so you can keep everything even. I do this often when making shoes or anything else that much be done in pairs.


 

Punky Slipper Booties (adult)

By Regina S. Graham

punk boot 6

Skill level: late intermediate/early advanced

Please read through entire pattern before beginning. There are lots of notes and directions that need to be taken into consideration while working which may affect your progress later on in the project. 

Please note: To drop one color and pick up another color, hold all final loops of last stitch on hook, with new color YO and draw through loops on hook.

Additional notes on color changes: The stitches for the tongue (round 16 of boot pattern) will line up with the center of the toe depending on how well you change colors for the toe. Tension is very important with the color changes and will change the remaining look of the pattern if it is off from one boot to the other.

Notes on size: One of my pattern testers made the pattern as written with an H/5mm hook and the resulting boot was a woman’s size 6-7 (US). If you’d like to try this to get a size 8, I would assume an I/5.5mm hook would suffice with the written pattern. I will add other sizes at a later date.

Finished size is in women’s US size, about 10 inches long x 4 inches wide


 

Materials

Black (A) –2 strands worsted weight yarn are held together, 4 skeins of Super Saver or balls of Love (it’s softer and thicker) so you can hold 1 strand from each of the 2 skeins at one time

Purple (B), 1 skein of about 300 yards, wind half into a separate ball for holding 2 strands together

White (C), scrap yarn is fine here

J/6mm hook, for boot

H/5mm hook, for laces, skull, and bow

 

Boot Pattern (Large/9), make 2

Sole:

Chain 20

Round 1: 2 hdc in 3rd ch from hook, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 10 sts, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, 6 dc in next st, 1 dc in each of next 5 sts, 1 hdc in each of next 10 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 2 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (44)

Round 2: ch 1, 2 sc in same st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts, 2 hdc in each of next 6 sts, 1 hdc in each of next 4 sts, 1 sc in each of next 12 sts, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sl st to 1st sc to join (54)

Round 3: ch 1, 1 sc in same st, 1 sc in each of next 20 sts, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st, 1 sc in each of next 21 sts, sl st to 1st sc to join (60)

Upper:

Round 4: ch 2, working in BLO 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (60)

*You will need to get your 2 strands of color B ready for the next few rounds.

Round 5: ch 2, hdc2tog in same st and next st, 1 hdc in next st, hdc2tog, 1 hdc in each of next 16 sts, drop A and pick up B, dc2tog 12 times, drop B and pick up A, 1 hdc in each of next 15 sts, sl st to hdc2tog to join (46)

Round 6: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 18 sts, drop A and pick up B, dc2tog 6 times, drop B and pick up A, 1 hdc in each of next 15 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (40)

Round 7: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 18 sts, drop A and pick up B, dc2tog 3 times, drop B and pick up A, 1 hdc in each of next 15 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (37)

*You may now cut B, continue working with A for remainder of boot.

Round 7: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 17 sts, dc2tog 3 times, 1 hdc in each of next 13 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (34)

Round 8: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 16 sts, dc2tog 3 times, 1 hdc in each of next 11 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (31)

Round 9: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 17 sts, dc2tog 1 time, 1 hdc in each of next 11 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (30)

Rounds 10-15: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each st around, sl st to 1st hdc to join (30)

*The taller stitches in the center of Round 16 create the tongue of the boot.

Round 16: ch 2, 1 hdc in same st, 1 hdc in each of next 19 sts, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, 2 tc in each of next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, 1 hdc in each of next 6 sts, sl st to 1st hdc to join (34)

Finish off ends

Faux lace flaps, make 4:

With K hook and 2 strands of black (A) held together, chain 22

Row 1: 1 dc in 3rd ch from hook, 1 dc in each st across

Cut yarn and leave long tail for sewing.

Sew flaps to boots, lining them up from outside edge of purple to outside edge of “tongue” stitches. *Optional: you can use safety pins to hold in place to make sewing easier.

Alternatively, you can surface crochet the flaps directly to the boot being careful to keep your stitches in line from the side of the toe to the side of the tongue.

Finish off all ends

Laces:

With H hook and one strand of white (C), chain 150

Tie slip knots on each end and trim yarn to ½” on each end (recommended to do this after you try them on with laces in case they need to be made longer)

Weave laces through flaps, using tops of each dc stitch, I skipped 2-3 stitches between each lacing

Try on your new boots! If they are a little loose around the leg, try lacing closer together. If they’re big, add some space between lacing.

Finished boots at this point:

punk boot 6

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Finished, embellished boots. How fun!!

Embellishments (optional, pictured at left with Spider Mambo skull applique): 

Skull

Skull Applique pictured from Spider Mambo

For the skull I used an existing pattern from Spider Mambo. The pattern was tricky but with the help of the pictures it wasn’t hard. Definitely take your time the first time through and remember where you put your stitches. Be mindful of where you place the treble crochet stitches for the “forehead” of the skull. Also, counting your final single crochet stitches around the edge of the skull will help keep things symmetrical. It’s a great looking skull pattern! The best I’ve found. Many thanks to Spider Mambo for sharing it.

 

Bow pattern

Using H/5mm hook and color C

Round 1: ch 4, in 3rd ch from hook [3 tc, ch 3, sl st] twice`

Studs

For the “studs” I used these scrapbooking self-stick gems from Micheal’s that I hot glued to the lace edges, right under where the laces pass through.

punk boot 1

Buttons  

I used these buttons from Hobby Lobby.

punk boot 2

 

 

 

 


 

 

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